Brittany is famed for its cider, the real stuff. Brittany is along the coastline of Northern France, but has a distinctly British inflection. Rolling granite cliffs, rolling green hills, fertile soil. Lots of rain and lots of cooling seabreezes make it ripe for apple growing. Hervé Seznec, of Manoir du Kinkiz, knew it was in his blood to make cider. At the age of 19 he replanted his 30 hectares of orchards with nearly 25 varieties of apples. Not only just to make cider, but make some of the most wonderfully complex expressions in the world. They use no herbicides in their orchards, and they allow indigenous plants and grass to grow between the trees. The AOP Cornouaille cider is aged in huge oak casks, Kinkiz is making a genuine attempt to return to the hands-on, artisan production methods of their ancestors. It is rich, bittersweet, full of pie crust, with an almost umami like edge. Cider is something that we need to start thinking of the way we do wines, serious drinks to accompany food and pleasure.