Julie Balagny - 2018 VDF ‘docteur Buchaille’

Julie Balagny has been in Beaujolais since 2009. With the help of friend (and renowned vigneron) Yvon Metras, she managed to find a parcel surrounded by woods in Fleurie – famed for wines of ethereal perfume, delicacy and breathtaking fruit. Since then, she's also been able to scoop up two more plots, small but mighty, in Moulin-à-Vent and Émeringes. The vineyard work is organic, and everything has to be done by hand due to the steep slopes; no tractor or horse can get around efficiently or safely. All the wines go through carbonic maceration, as is the flavour of Beaujolais these days, and to protect her wines Julie is fastidious about the absence of oxygen. No punch downs, no pump overs – just time. She is a famed recluse, cares for little else other than the vines and the Earth, and thus makes intense, moving, never-forget-me wines.

This wine, from the Moulin plot is deep and pretty. Black fruits smashed in your cheeks, hints of cacao, charcoal, cedar and the nostalgia of walking into a country pub – wooden and tobacco flecked. Texture is of clouds and dreams. How does she do it? No idea, but you have to try it, for everyone's sake. 

Variety Gamay || Region Beaujolais, France || ABV 12.5% || Vol 750ml