There’s cult wines, and then there’s CULT WINES. The ever ethereal Jean-Paul Robinot. One of the first to open a natural wine bar in Paris and a founder of the famous magazine Rouge et Blanc, he left the city for the vines in 2000, purchasing a plot in Chahaignes, midway between Tours and Le Mans in the Loire. Chenin Blanc and Pineau d’Aunis, grown wild. Everything fermented in epic limestone caves, deep in the ground. They are released when Robinot believes they are ready, speaking, and not a moment beforehand. When you first experience a Robinot wine the first thought is...nothing. An indescribable emotion that clears the brain, a near spiritual experience. They are unable to be replicated, adored and inspired, but their own thing entirely. They are a must on every natural wine drinker's wishlist. Chenin Blanc from a vineyard around forty years old, pressed straight to old barrels for fifteen months of élevage. Meadowsweet, crushed beach stones, yellow pear and peach. Biscotti. This plushness is guided by a lingering line of acid that feels sonic. Rare bird this one.