2015 Les Basses Croix et Les Gillis Premier Cru Champagne
This Blanc de blancs is the result of extraordnary vineyard work. Careful selection of 100% Chardonnay form the Lieux-dits les Basses Croix and Les Gillis, fermented with indigenous yeasts and 11 months élevage in old wooden barrels. Aged in bottle for a further 2.5 years. Zero dosage. This wine is all about purity, finesse and vitality. It's weightless as a cloud, yet not without exceptional depth. White-golden-yellow in hue, it has joyful bubbles that dance around the palate in a long, precise string. You are lured into the glass nose-first with alluring yet dainty aromas – peach blossom, lemon, yellow stone fruit and freshly baked croissant. The palate is as expressive as a Kandinsky, brimming with gestural brushstrokes of minerality alongside tones of salinity, creating remarkable tension. This is a wine worthy of cellaring, but it's also drinking beautifully right this second. Enjoy it from a larger glass, not too cold (10-12 degrees). Wow.
Émilien Feneuil is a young, wildly talented artisan vigneron who works his own plots in the Premier Cru territory of Sermiers. The soils here comprise many geological layers – sand, marl, clay and soft limestone – releasing a stunning salinity that persists into the wines. Émilien's 4 plots total a tiny 2.37 hectares, and are all farmed organically without any herbicides, chemical or synthetic fertilisers. In the cellar, he works in a natural way, allowing the terroir to sing a loud and soulful song.