David Moreau - 2017 Meursault 'Les Pellans'

Did you know that David Moreau makes some of the most striking wines in Burgundy? He's a youngish winemaker based in Santenay, the last village of the Cote d'Or, who's worked at some of the world's wineries. First he was with Chateau de Beaucastel in Chateauneuf du Pape, followed by Neudorf in NZ, then Domaine Hubert Lamy in Burgundy and, finally, wait for it ... at Domaine de la Romanée Conti! Whoa. Moreau took over his Grandfather's domaine in 2009 and immediately converted to organics. He tends to 5 ha in Village and 1er Cru Appellations of the family vines, most of which were planted by his grandfather in the 1960s at the bottom of the slope on the Chassagne Montrachet side of Santenay.

His '17 'Les Pellans' is crafted from 100% Chardonnay, picked on the early side, wild fermented and matured in old and new oak (33% new). It's wonderfully alive, with a profound sense of weightlessness and transparency; as if it has nothing to hide. Incredibly honest, and clean. There's a murmur of matchstick reduction on the nose, with aromas of crisp pear, white peach and hazelnut. The palate swims with lime, smoke, slate, white pepper, crushed rocks and crisp acid. So energetic and racy, it threatens to leap from the glass and escape into the night.

Variety Chardonnay || Region Burgundy, France || ABV 13% || Vol 750ml