2015 Non Tradition Gruner Veltliner
Not your usual crisp, green apple and vegetal business that Gruner typically brings. Rich and generous in texture, this wine slides around the glass with lemon balm, pear and pineapple, alongside tones of bay leaf and other dried herbs. Dollop of honey, and a tingly acidity. Non tradition indeed. No fining, no filtration and no additions. Some barrels had uncrushed grapes in them, so the colour is almost pale tangerine. So pretty.
Christian Tschida farms 11ha of old vines in national park Neusiedlersee, Burgenland, which’ve been with his family since the 1800s. Dry farmed without chemicals, his biodiverse vineyards are like an overgrown botanical garden full of herbs, grasses, flowers, insects and animals. Christian avoids modern technology in his winemaking, opting for hands, feet, gravity. His potions spend much time in barrel mingling with oxygen, some for up to 5 years. After bottling by hand, he returns the grape must and leftover juice to the vines in a homemade prep to aid the health of the vineyard. Oh the circle of life.